Monthly Archives: April 2013

Sheffield…

I moved over to Sheffield mid October. Hoping to get involved in more freelance work and to possibly get a bit more work as an MIA. Its been slow, but I hope for a busy summer. I survived mainly on tesco value and the odd bit of work in the climbing walls. The Autumn on the grit was magnificent and having never climbed on grit before I had plenty to go at. It took a bit of getting used to. The main difficulty is the head game and knowing that at any point on most routes there is ground fall and leg breakage potential. But that adds to the charm, and the lure of these short but striking lines. A grit E4 means hard. Using of boulder pads makes things a bit friendlier and great fun, but still serious. Often things look a lot easier than they are. After nearly killing my self trying to solo a few routes that looked easy, when I first got there, I tried to go easy for a while, to aquire the grit technique. I think I got the hang of it, but it just took a bit of getting used to.

I climbed a lot of routes. Often highball or solo. Notable ones and favourites have to be quietus, nosferatu, entropes jaw, wings of unreason, downhill racer, archangel, oedopus, pebble mill, the knock, goliath, hathersage trip, moon walk, the temptest, auto de fa…. the list goes on

 

Bouldering has been really fun too. It is actually quite hard to tell the difference. Some routes have become boulder problems, and some problems look like routes. I have managed a load of great 7a – 7b problems. Stand out problems would be; Suavito 7b, Trust 7a at roaches, Jerrys arete 7a, marks roof 7b, captain hook 7b, breakfast 7a, downhill gardener 7a+, english voodoo 7a, milky buttons 7b. and many more