autumness

Up until last week the weather in Sheffield had been generally good. I have enjoyed lots of quality climbing being able to tick a few more awesome routes. This last week Has been generally complete turd.

At the end of September I had a good go at london wall E5. A route that looks class and has a bit of a rep for being hard. I just thought I might as well get on it. I got to about a meter below the top and my fingers slipped out of a jam and i took a lob half way down the wall. Gutted, I was so close. I pulled my ropes, stripped the gear and sent it next day. As annoyed as I was about blowing it, I enjoyed my airtime and was glad I got on it. I like crack climbing, and the peg scars make reasonable finger locks. I just crammed my fingers in and whether they felt good or not, I just pulled on them. The locks at the top where I fell off didn’t feel any worse than the rest of the climb, my fingers just slipped out. Katie abondoned the midges and belaying to take a photo. I was on the good holds. Surveying the kingdom, but facing the wall

Edge lane was my next and after a bit of up and down I finally committed to the crux. Falling off the crux on this is definitely NOT an option. My first down climb was one of those not so enjoyable experiences, bordering on harrowing. The crux is technically not difficult, but it is a little bit hard to work out. You hope there are good holds to come but you are not totally sure. Keep moving and don’t look down until your at the top.

I’ve been out a few days with Dave Hollinger, getting some mileage in at Stanage and Froggat. At Froggatt I did Strapadictomy E5 6b which is a short but fun bit of climbing. Some dudes were there sieging it so I had to wait for a few hours. I climbed some scary Whillans route E3 Cave wall, which was good and also definitely not one to fall off. I climbed strapadictomy as close to onsight as possible, however the siegers had left some helpful ticks.

Mark and Neil invited me down to “the Churnet” to try some things down there. Its an interesting area with these random big lumps of conglomerate gritty sandstone scattered around the woods. It is also right next to Alton towers and you can hear people on the rides not very far away. There are a number of Stand out lines, and I had a go at some of them. I climbed the classic E5 arete Soul survivior with a bit of Beta from Neil. Its like a steeper edge lane but protected by a few pegs. It did seem a bit of an eliminate, because you are only allowed to climb on the right hand side, but other than this its a great climb.

Mark Rankine on Soul Survivor, Photo Me

I tried “the pride” which is currently a very high High ball E6. I didnt like the dynamic move accross the lip, as it was very high, and in my mind could result in landing in any position on my dodgy ankles. It was cool to watch Mark and Neil get it sent and Neil proceeded to do laps on it. We went back down the following Sunday to Inas Rock and climbed Thumbelina, Another very High High ball E6/7. This time the crux suited me better and soon I was crimping my way into the no fall zone.

Photos: Guy Van Greuning

There is also a cool E5 called inaccessible which climbs a potatoey headwall. It is a russian roulette of pebble pulling.  This was a much more normal traddy e5 experience than the usual grit antics, and with no chalk to follow and thoughtful gear it was a trouser filling onsight. 

A day at black rocks brought on another battle with that stupid gutter move on the block. I tried and tried, and enviously watched Rob Greenwood find the knack for the move. Watching him enjoying the slabs was so frustrating, not being able to get onto the gutter. I opted for a footie, and once on the slab flashed velvet silence. It doesnt really count, but I had fun. Photo Rob Greenwood

Mark took this photo of my falling off Pulsar Direct, E6 on Higgar tor. Its a cool e6 with a safe and tricky crux. On my flash attempt I was fairly close to catching the hold, but just needed that inch of pop. I got it second go. Brilliant route with a safe fall, even with the rope round the back of your legs.

Before the rain came I discovered Raven tor and had a go at some peak Limestone. I climbed the “sardine”, 7b+, “Tin of”, 7b and after one more session “another toadside attraction” 7c. No big deal, but I was surprised to say I quite enjoyed myself. My sport climbing experience is next to nothing, as I don’t usually enjoy it. I had written off Raven tor as a crag where everything would be uber hard and polished, and not that nice. I certainly didn’t think it was somewhere I might push my sport grade. Previous to raven tor I had only ever managed to climb one 7b. Maybe I can get into this sporty thing.