back up at “the head” and a bit more owey for good measure.

Craigy, Kev and I had another trip to owey. The weather was fairly ming, but being off work we didn’t have much else to do. For a day we sat in a little shed (apparently the kings shed) and drank tea, as it rained constantly. In the evening the sun appeared and we went to look for more rocks. Myself and Kev climbed a lovely flake feature we had spied from the kayak on trip one. It went at about e2 5c. Craigy did his thing and took some amazing photographs.

Then Kev climbed a cool crack feature in this weird zawn. This went at about HVS. To the left there was a mad steep wall and I climbed a route up a hanging groove corner thing. Its steep and pumpy and the wall overhangs a slot which goes into a cave which must go all the way through the island. With the water bashing around beneath, and hanging onto the weird big granite flakes it was an exciting place to be, especially with terminal pump. That was it, we only had a day before the seas got to rough and we had to get back to the mainland.

I Have since spent some great days at fairhead with kev and his wonder van. 

I climbed thunder road (no jam rash) whats all the fuss about? Then I climbed promised land, without a fall this time. 

On sunday I cleaned and inspected learning to fly. After 18 years I made a second ascent on monday. Its fabulous techy and committing climbing. reccommended. 

 

Oh and I climbed Stripach, (Irish for Bitch Whore) enought said. Respect to Emmet goulding in 1968. HVS or E4 5a. I could hardly walk the next day and my knees are all scabby.

 

Now, im off to the airport for 9 days DWS in Mallorca. 

 

More on Owey

Last weekend I returned to owey with some more friends. Ricky, Michelle, Craigy and Kev. We drove up through torrential sideways donegal sheet rain on Friday night. We slept in the carpark at cruit Island. It was wild. The forecast for most of Ireland was fairly crap, but I convinced the others of the rainshadow effect on the Islands and that it would be great weather. In the carpark on Friday night I was feeling a bit uncertain. But Saturday morning came, and the darkest clouds began to clear over our heads and settle on the Glenveagh Mountains. Squalls continued to pass untill 11 or so. We couldn’t get out to Owey. Kayaking was out of the question in the sea conditions and Owey Dan wouldn’t take us as he said it was way too dangerous. So we drank coffee for a few hours looking at Owey and discussing options and other potential mega crags. We drove round to the Cruits crags and pottered about on some solos and did some swimming in the unbelievably warm water. I think I swam for 2 hours body surfing. Dave Turnbull was there too with his Kids, also enjoying the surf. I was jealous of Harrys body Board and tried using a Bouldering mat, but it didnt really work. Towards the end of the afternoon, it seemed a little less rough and Owey Dan the wee boatman, was able to take us out. We got out around 7.30 in the evening, and went straight to the crag. After pointing a few things out, myself and Kev went over the edge and Kev Lead a new pitch from a nice ledge about 15 m down. We had spied it the first time we were there, and it took a line through a set of underclings to an airy arete. It was a lovely pitch in a magnificent situation. The sea below was totally mental. Its about e2. Craigy took some great Photographs. 

The next day I was keen to try a line through the overhangs again. There is an awesome undercling feature. This time with a 100 m ab rope we could get down the left hand section of the crag, which is free hanging most of the way down. We climbed a new pitch up to the Cave belay, and from here I was able to climb difficultly into the Huge roof. Its a unique feature, as you climb through the biggest overhang with a thin slab for your feet. I think its a bout E4. at the lip of the overhang you step down onto a perfect belay ledge. From here we tried a bit on a potential route leftwards, but it was a bit too blind. To finish we climbed up the the steep hard crack of the itchy nose.cutting loose, and then promptly cutting back tight again.

To finish, we climbed a huge crack/chimney on the left end of the wall. It was yet again amazing. 60 meters of overhanging shimmying, back and footing, jug hauling and bridging. This felt about E2/3.Ricky and Michelle climbed an amazing crack on the left hand wall straight out of the sea. A little too close to the swell for everyone watching and the got totally walloped by a monster wave. Despite being soaked Michelle led off on the first pitch and ricky lead an incredible second. A very fine effort. Thanks to Craig Hiller for the fantastic Photographs.