I made a few wee topos of some of the big crags on Owey. Im crap at names, and am still thinking. If anybody is inspired to go out then I recommend it. There is some insane granite! See you next summer Owey. Psyched for Irish climbing as usual…
1. Fat arse crack? Mick Walsh, Damien O’sullivan 2011? Varient Michelle and Ricky 2013, and climbing assuming it was a new route. E3/4 60m
A carefully set up free hanging abseil (60m) reaches a ledge at the base of the crack to start routes 2 and 3.
2. demise of the rockstar, J.McCune, K.Kilroy E3 5c. 60m Climb the massive steep deep crack at the side of the Zawn. Start in an open groove at the base of the cleft or as low as the sea allows. Climb using a combination of squirming, jug hauling, caving and bridging, outside and inside the crack. Possible belay at half height. Crux at the top with an overhang Start as low as the sea allows.
3. Rainshadow . E4 6b 70m. J.McCune, K.Kilroy
Climb the groove to a diagonal ramp. Continue up the roof and cracks to a spacious belay ledge/cave. (5a) From the lefthand side of the ledge climb a diagonal rightwards crack and pull strenuously around a roof (6b Crux) to gain the most incredible hanging corner. Climb around a second roof to reach the third roof section which is enormous. Follow this via an epic traverse with good gear, underclings and just enough for your feet. Gain another 5 star belay ledge hanging out above the nose, and the sea. Follow the crack straight up into a final overhanging groove which is passed with surprising difficulty. (also probably 6b)
The following two routes are approached by a diagonal abseil down a corner /gully with a big chock stone. With a deviation about half way gain a non tidal big square ledge.
4. Srón Tochasach – (The Itchy Nose) E5 6a/b. J.McCune, K.Kilroy
Climb a rightwards diagonal crack from the lefthand edge of the ledge. When possible follow some cracks and grooves straight up to small niche under the righthand side of the massive roof. Now traverse up and leftwards on small egdes. Place a few cams under the roof and gain an arete on the left. Pull round the arete via an exhilarating move to gain a wonderful belay ledge/cave. 6a 35m (Careful route finding and rope management required.) From the belay traverse rightwards onto the hanging slab using small holds and underclings in the roof. Step down to gain the arete of the incredible hanging nose feature. Belay “au cheval” a leg either side. 8m 5b. Now follow the steep splitter crack with increasing difficulty until possible to move back left to some good ledges and a rest. Now soak up the exposure, atmosphere and life in general before attacking the strenuous overhanging exit grove. 6a/b
5. The Donkeys Pelvis. HVS 5a. J.McCune, K.Kilroy
Follows the line of the abseil. Climb a fine crack to a niche and rightwards trending ramp. After about 4 meters climbing up the ramp climb up the wall via grooves and flutings. Trend rightwards, then up a groove to gain a big ledge. Possible Belay. Climb a crack above the ledge which leads to the exit groove, blocked by the huge chockstone. Pass on the right with care.
6. The donkey jumped over the moon. E2 5c. K.Kilroy, J. McCune
An exhilarating variation top pitch to the previous route. From the right hand side of the belay ledge climb a crack with difficulty into a groove barred by a roof. Escape rightwards under the stepped roofs on under clings and small footholds. When things run out make a sensational move to gain a magnificent hold on the arete and follow the jugs to glory.
Abseil down to a good ledge at the base of a few cracks.
7. E1 5b. Climb the corner into a crack passing a few bulges. J.McCune, K.Maxwell
8. HVS 5b. Climb the crack right of the corner passing a few bulges and a strange move. K.Kilroy, J Colandairaj
9. VS 4c. Climb the diagonal ramp and corner, until a crack on the left wall. follow this up to a ledge and belay behind an enormous block. Follow the slab and ramp rightwards to finish? S.Black, C.Strawson, R.Temple
10. E2 5c 25m Jmccune, K.Kilroy. Abseil to a good ledge down and left. Climb the rightwards flake and groove passing a birdbeak roof. Immaculate granite.
11. Lumpy space. E4 6a. J.Mccune, K.Kilroy. Silly climbing up and across a series of dubious but juggy flakes gains a span to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the groove with sustained interest and bursting forearms to a slabbier finish.
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