Owey topos

I made a few wee topos of some of the big crags on Owey. Im crap at names, and am still thinking. If anybody is inspired to go out then I recommend it. There is some insane granite! See you next summer Owey. Psyched for Irish climbing as usual…

 

 

1. Fat arse crack? Mick Walsh, Damien O’sullivan 2011? Varient Michelle and Ricky 2013, and climbing assuming it was a new route. E3/4 60m

A carefully set up free hanging abseil (60m) reaches a ledge at the base of the crack to start routes 2 and 3.

2. demise of the rockstar, J.McCune, K.Kilroy E3 5c. 60m Climb the massive steep deep crack at the side of the Zawn. Start in an open groove at the base of the cleft or as low as the sea allows. Climb using a combination of squirming, jug hauling, caving and bridging, outside and inside the crack. Possible belay at half height. Crux at the top with an overhang  Start as low as the sea allows.

3. Rainshadow . E4 6b 70m. J.McCune, K.Kilroy

Climb the groove to a diagonal ramp. Continue up the roof and cracks to a spacious belay ledge/cave. (5a) From the lefthand side of the ledge climb a diagonal rightwards crack and pull strenuously around a roof (6b Crux) to gain the most incredible hanging corner. Climb around a second roof to reach the third roof section which is enormous. Follow this via an epic traverse with good gear, underclings and just enough for your feet. Gain another 5 star belay ledge hanging out above the nose, and the sea. Follow the crack straight up into a final overhanging groove which is passed with surprising difficulty. (also probably 6b)

The following two routes are approached by a diagonal abseil down a corner /gully with a big chock stone. With a deviation about half way gain a non tidal big square ledge.

4. Srón Tochasach – (The Itchy Nose) E5 6a/b. J.McCune, K.Kilroy

Climb a rightwards diagonal crack from the lefthand edge of the ledge. When possible follow some cracks and grooves straight up to small niche under the righthand side of the massive roof. Now traverse up and leftwards on small egdes. Place a few cams under the roof and gain an arete on the left. Pull round the arete via an exhilarating move to gain a wonderful belay ledge/cave. 6a 35m (Careful route finding and rope management required.) From the belay traverse rightwards onto the hanging slab using small holds and underclings in the roof. Step down to gain the arete of the incredible hanging nose feature. Belay “au cheval” a leg either side. 8m 5b. Now follow the steep splitter crack with increasing difficulty until possible to move back left to some good ledges and a rest. Now soak up the exposure, atmosphere and life in general before attacking the strenuous overhanging exit grove. 6a/b

5. The Donkeys Pelvis. HVS 5a. J.McCune, K.Kilroy

Follows the line of the abseil. Climb a fine crack to a niche and rightwards trending ramp. After about 4 meters climbing up the ramp climb up the wall via grooves and flutings. Trend rightwards, then up a groove to gain a big ledge. Possible Belay. Climb a crack above the ledge which leads to the exit groove, blocked by the huge chockstone. Pass on the right with care.

6. The donkey jumped over the moon. E2 5c. K.Kilroy, J. McCune

An exhilarating variation top pitch to the previous route. From the right hand side of the belay ledge climb a crack with difficulty into a groove barred by a roof. Escape rightwards under the stepped roofs on under clings and small footholds. When things run out make a sensational move to gain a magnificent hold on the arete and follow the jugs to glory.

Abseil down to a good ledge at the base of a few cracks.

7. E1 5b. Climb the corner into a crack passing a few bulges. J.McCune, K.Maxwell

8. HVS 5b. Climb the crack right of the corner passing a few bulges and a strange move. K.Kilroy, J Colandairaj

9. VS 4c. Climb the diagonal ramp and corner, until a crack on the left wall. follow this up to a ledge and belay behind an enormous block. Follow the slab and ramp rightwards to finish? S.Black, C.Strawson, R.Temple

10. E2 5c 25m Jmccune, K.Kilroy. Abseil to a good ledge down and left. Climb the rightwards flake and groove passing a birdbeak roof. Immaculate granite.

11. Lumpy space. E4 6a. J.Mccune, K.Kilroy.  Silly climbing up and across a series of dubious but juggy flakes gains a span to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the groove with sustained interest and bursting  forearms to a slabbier finish.

autumness

Up until last week the weather in Sheffield had been generally good. I have enjoyed lots of quality climbing being able to tick a few more awesome routes. This last week Has been generally complete turd.

At the end of September I had a good go at london wall E5. A route that looks class and has a bit of a rep for being hard. I just thought I might as well get on it. I got to about a meter below the top and my fingers slipped out of a jam and i took a lob half way down the wall. Gutted, I was so close. I pulled my ropes, stripped the gear and sent it next day. As annoyed as I was about blowing it, I enjoyed my airtime and was glad I got on it. I like crack climbing, and the peg scars make reasonable finger locks. I just crammed my fingers in and whether they felt good or not, I just pulled on them. The locks at the top where I fell off didn’t feel any worse than the rest of the climb, my fingers just slipped out. Katie abondoned the midges and belaying to take a photo. I was on the good holds. Surveying the kingdom, but facing the wall

Edge lane was my next and after a bit of up and down I finally committed to the crux. Falling off the crux on this is definitely NOT an option. My first down climb was one of those not so enjoyable experiences, bordering on harrowing. The crux is technically not difficult, but it is a little bit hard to work out. You hope there are good holds to come but you are not totally sure. Keep moving and don’t look down until your at the top.

I’ve been out a few days with Dave Hollinger, getting some mileage in at Stanage and Froggat. At Froggatt I did Strapadictomy E5 6b which is a short but fun bit of climbing. Some dudes were there sieging it so I had to wait for a few hours. I climbed some scary Whillans route E3 Cave wall, which was good and also definitely not one to fall off. I climbed strapadictomy as close to onsight as possible, however the siegers had left some helpful ticks.

Mark and Neil invited me down to “the Churnet” to try some things down there. Its an interesting area with these random big lumps of conglomerate gritty sandstone scattered around the woods. It is also right next to Alton towers and you can hear people on the rides not very far away. There are a number of Stand out lines, and I had a go at some of them. I climbed the classic E5 arete Soul survivior with a bit of Beta from Neil. Its like a steeper edge lane but protected by a few pegs. It did seem a bit of an eliminate, because you are only allowed to climb on the right hand side, but other than this its a great climb.

Mark Rankine on Soul Survivor, Photo Me

I tried “the pride” which is currently a very high High ball E6. I didnt like the dynamic move accross the lip, as it was very high, and in my mind could result in landing in any position on my dodgy ankles. It was cool to watch Mark and Neil get it sent and Neil proceeded to do laps on it. We went back down the following Sunday to Inas Rock and climbed Thumbelina, Another very High High ball E6/7. This time the crux suited me better and soon I was crimping my way into the no fall zone.

Photos: Guy Van Greuning

There is also a cool E5 called inaccessible which climbs a potatoey headwall. It is a russian roulette of pebble pulling.  This was a much more normal traddy e5 experience than the usual grit antics, and with no chalk to follow and thoughtful gear it was a trouser filling onsight. 

A day at black rocks brought on another battle with that stupid gutter move on the block. I tried and tried, and enviously watched Rob Greenwood find the knack for the move. Watching him enjoying the slabs was so frustrating, not being able to get onto the gutter. I opted for a footie, and once on the slab flashed velvet silence. It doesnt really count, but I had fun. Photo Rob Greenwood

Mark took this photo of my falling off Pulsar Direct, E6 on Higgar tor. Its a cool e6 with a safe and tricky crux. On my flash attempt I was fairly close to catching the hold, but just needed that inch of pop. I got it second go. Brilliant route with a safe fall, even with the rope round the back of your legs.

Before the rain came I discovered Raven tor and had a go at some peak Limestone. I climbed the “sardine”, 7b+, “Tin of”, 7b and after one more session “another toadside attraction” 7c. No big deal, but I was surprised to say I quite enjoyed myself. My sport climbing experience is next to nothing, as I don’t usually enjoy it. I had written off Raven tor as a crag where everything would be uber hard and polished, and not that nice. I certainly didn’t think it was somewhere I might push my sport grade. Previous to raven tor I had only ever managed to climb one 7b. Maybe I can get into this sporty thing.