This year the meet was a great success. I have never seen so many people at Fairhead. It was great craic and some brilliant climbing was done too. I climbed Thunderhips for the first time, and really enjoyed it. Swail and myself climbed the hustler, a superb E3. We then seconded Andy on the Complete scream, Rickys massive direct e8 into primal scream. This was a fantastic experience to be able to climb on the wall. The climbing felt OK, but the run outs are huge. Needless to say Andy cruised up it.
On the Sunday after a good party and an inspiring talk from Nick Bullock, I got on Death or Glory. This is an E4 on the head wall above roaring meg. I have wanted to climb it for a while but have always been a bit scared because of its reputation. Andys route Fairy stories actually climbs into the same hanging corner on its second pitch. However the original route with its own start had never received a second ascent as far as I know. It feels bold climbing off the big ledge onto a steep wall with poor footholds. I traversed back and forth a fair bit before committing to the moves into the groove. After this you climb boldly up the groove for a few more pumpy moves before you get gear. The rest of the climb is incredible and the moves out of the groove onto the headwall are sensational. I thought e5 might be more reasonable, comparing it to other e4’s at the head. 
The following weekend a good crowd of us were up again, and Katie and myself climbed the Badlands. I love the Bruce springsteen classics and I am working my way through them. I think I just have thunder road to do. This is tremendous climb in the white lightning ampitheatre. It has 3 great pitches and was relatively clean too. It always feels like Jurassic park down there. I finished the weekend climbing Jolly roger in a oner. 
johnmccuneclimb 