The Buzzards roost is the most impressive wall in the Mournes. I had been up to it a few times, and watched others climbing on it, but never got on myself. War Music is an E5 with quite a reputation. As far as I know nobody has onsighted it without a fall. Not very many people have climbed it either. I only know of 5 or 6, and thats probably it. It is an intimidating wall weaving a line through huge overhangs. I went up with the ever psyched Colm Shannon, who surprisingly needed a little persuading. He took the first pitch and put in an amazing lead climbed it clean. This was a good start. I have watched 2 people try that pitch and both had to rest. Its surprisingly a lot harder and steeper than it looks. The pitch ends with an amazing move where you swing out right on a ledge, cut loose and campus along until you can drop your feet onto a belay block a good bit further right again. Exhilarating.
I Then started up the crux pitch which is beautiful climbing around ledges and through overhangs and grooves. A vague uncomfortable rest in a slim groove is gained before the crux crack. I must have spent an hour here trying to recover my energy so that I would have been fresh for the crux pitch. I could get both hands off by smearing my crotch around the edge of the groove. Fairly uncomfortable, but it kind of worked, unless I breathed too much, and I would start to slide off. After a long time trying to get an idea of what was before me I went for it. The move is unbelievably hard. The holds seem to run out and the crack becomes useless and I was staring at a dyno. I dont Dyno. I fell many many times and got more and more pumped. At my last attempt I gave it everything and caught the hold. It was sensational. The rest of the climbing is straight forward in comparison and its amazing to be up there on the top of that massively steep face.
Colm on the first belay.
Dayle and John Orr on War Music 3 years ago.
johnmccuneclimb 